mitered squares

Why is my mitered square wonky? - And other questions

This question seems to come up a lot when people first start knitting mitered square blankets and a wonky square can cause a great deal of consternation if you are new to process.

By wonky, I mean a square that looks to be a little more diamond shaped than the nice, neat mitered square of fond imagination.

The simple solution is often the best one in knitting (and life) - just keep going. The first square often looks a bit weird but it gains structure and support from adjoining squares.

If that's not a metaphor for life I don't know what is. If in doubt just keep going and draw on those around you for support.

Seriously though, it's easy to give up at the first attempt, or to repeatedly try to produce a perfect square to start off what's going to be your wonderful magnus opus. But, even if the square looks a little lopsided it's generally best to just keep going.

As you are knitting garter stitch there will inevitably be some stretch and ‘give’ in your knitted piece and this will become more pronounced, the fewer stitches you have on the needles. Once you start to add squares on either side then stability will return and the stitches on either side will help to pull the recalcitrant square into shape.

If the problem is that you aren't happy with the fabric- too loose or too rigid, then obviously readjust your needle size and start again. But if it's just an issue of geometry, keep going and all will be well.


Other mitered square articles you might find helpful:

How much yarn do you need for a mitered square

How to knit a mitered square blanket

How to knit a mitered square blanket - updated for 2023

If your list of autumn/winter knitting plans includes a Mitered Square blanket then you might be interested to hear about my e-book: How to Knit a Mitered Square.

Re-written and expanded for 2023, this 10-page e-book takes you through how to start and build a Mitered Square blanket of your very own.

It includes written directions and photos to help you on your way as well as the approximate yarn amounts needed for squares of various sizes - and in different weights (sock weight, DK, and sock yarn held double).

Not all mitered square blankets need to be knit with sock yarn of course, but it isn't always easy to judge the size of squares and the amount of yarn needed to knit them.

This e-book aims to remove some the guesswork and provide you with a solid set of suggestions on how to create a truly unique mitered square blanket.

How much yarn do you need for a Mitered Square

If you have ever contemplated the size of your leftover yarn bag and thought of making a mitered square blanket, then this is a post to bookmark and come back to for reference.

Ever obsessed with using up my leftover yarn - which mysteriously keeps replenishing itself when my back is turned, I took it upon myself to do a little investigation and work our how much yarn I needed for mitered squares of varying sizes in both DK and sock weight yarn.

The results I present below for your knitting pleasure because as we all know, the only thing more frustrating than running out of yarn with just a few rows to go, is ending up with lots of slightly smaller balls of yarn (that are too small for the square size you’ve chosen).

I have to add the caveat here that YMMV - your mileage may vary.

I weighed these squares on my digital scales which only go down to 1g increments so there may be some rounding up/down. Also your gauge and specific yarn weights might give different results, but hopefully the amounts below will serve as a guide.

Yarn amounts for sock weight yarn:

Using a 3mm needle and at a gauge of 28sts per 4”. In the list below 10x10 is shorthand for 10 sts by 10 sts.

10x10 1.5" less than 1g
15x15 2" 2g
20x20 3" 4g
25x25 3.75"6g
30x30 4.25" 8g
35x35 5.25" 11g

Yarn amounts for DK weight yarn:

Using a 4mm needle and at a gauge of 21sts per 4”

10x10 2" 2g
15x15 3" 4g
20x20 3.75" 8g
25x25 4.5" 14g
30x30 5.5" 18g

You can find all of this information along with my in-depth tutorial for creating your very own Mitered Square Blanket in my e-book, which is for sale at the link below.

If you’d like to read more about Mitered Square Blankets and their construction - I have a blog post and tutorial here that might help.


The Comfort Blanket KAL is back for 2023


I'm delighted to be able to announce that the Comfort Blanket KAL is back for 2023. It ran very successfully in 2020 and 2021 but last year I missed it due to the death of my Dad.

The year doesn't seem complete without my most popular KAL event though so I figured it was a good time to dust it off and relaunch it for another year.

Tell me more...

The Comfort Blanket KAL 2023 is a 4 week KAL which walks you through every step of planning and getting started on your mitered square blanket journey. I say journey because these blankets - typically knit from leftover yarn are generally considered to be long term projects. No one is expecting you to knit a blanket in 4 weeks - please don't worry.

Instead the KAL is intended as a springboard to get you started, with ideas and inspiration as well as practical tips for planning and construction.

The KAL will start on May 1st and each Monday for 4 weeks you'll get an email with that week's topic. The information will also be available within a dedicated Facebook group where you will be able to hang out with fellow Comfort Blanket KAL'ers and chat about your various projects.

And at the end of the KAL you’ll get an ebook containing all the information from the 4 weeks, along with a few other tips and tricks.

Previous year’s participants

If you took part in the previous KALs sit tight, as the joining instructions to the Facebook group and your automatic invitation will be heading your way soon. 

We all know that these blankets are a labour of love and you are welcome to come and join us again to add some more mitered squares to your work-in-progress. Or if you are a finishing superstar and you want to join in with another - because one mitered square blanket is never enough - it would be lovely to have you on board too.

Done is better than perfect

I've been doing a lot of thinking about perfectionism this week - partly as a continuation of last week's Tuesday Tip where I talked about the one piece of advice I'd give to all knitters.

Handknits are meant to have imperfections in them - it shows they were made by a human being not a machine.

That being said, it reminded me of when I shared a photo of my mitered square blanket - back in the day when I thought it was finished - and someone helpfully popped up to point out the square where the line runs in the opposite direction.

Luckily I'd seen it already, and decided that I could very easily live with it. But if I hadn't, or I was of a more fragile disposition I'd have been really upset.

But people of course love to point out others mistakes, it's a real human trait and well recognised psychologically.

In fact brands/companies will sometimes include an intentional error in their social media posts - as the slew of people pointing out the typo or the flaw will boost engagement.

Essex Is United - is a community FB page which started during the pandemic and they are past masters at this. They usually include a tiny error - in a jokey way - and then stand back and watch their comments section explode as people fall over themselves to point it out. It doesn't even matter that 120 people before them have done so, they still want to add their comment.

Why do humans do this? I've no idea

But in knitting terms, it's probably best that if you see a mistake in someone else's work that they are proudly sharing online - that you pretend you didn't

Two different mitered square decreases

A mitered square over an even number of stitches (left) vs one with an odd number (right)

Everyone loves the look of a mitered square blanket but one of the most common questions is around which decrease to use to create the distinctive mitered square look.

There are several different options available for how to knit a mitered square but they fall into two camps - those worked over an even number of stitches and those that use an odd number.

Even number of stitches: These have a marker at the centre point and an even number of stitches either side (32 sts in total in my example above). On each RS row the square is worked:

K to 2 sts before m, ssk, sm, k2tog, K to end.

The WS row is knit all the way across.

This creates a fairly broad ridge up the centre of the mitered square. It’s simple and easy to remember but some people are looking for a narrower, more defined ‘spine’ to their work.

Odd number of stitches: These squares have a central marked stitch with an even number of stitches on either side of that stitch. In my example above the 2 sides have 16 sts, with a central stitch (33 in total).

In this case the spine is formed by creating a central double decrease (CDD) - decreasing by 2 sts at the central point:

K to 1 st before central marked st, sl 1, k2tog, pass slipped st over the k2tog just worked (psso), K to end.

There are number of different ways to work a CDD - I have just given one option here - but the principle is always the same. You knit to 1 st before the central stitch then do a double decrease.

It gives a neat, defined line up the centre of the stitch which some people prefer.

I love the look of the CDD but I have an irrational dislike of actually carrying out the decrease itself. It’s always advisable to mark the central stitch in some way (I use a little bulb pin) but every time you do the CDD you need to move the marker up to make sure you do the CDD in the correct place on the next RS row.

Every time that I get lazy and think I’ll remember where the CDD goes - I forget. It’s OK when you are paying close attention but it only takes a momentary lapse and suddenly your nice straight spine looks more like a dogs hind leg.

For this reason |I always prefer to do my mitered squares over an even number of stitches - you always know where you are with a paired ssk/k2tog decrease.

But, as with everything it’s worth experimenting and seeing which decrease you prefer. Do you have a favourite? Let me know in the comments below.