How to knit a mitered square blanket

How to knit a mitered square blanket - available here

The wonderful things about mitered square blankets (sometimes called memory blankets) is that you can really personalise them and make them your own. Most patterns are really just a basic recipe to help you get the idea of how they are constructed and after that you really can freestyle to your hearts content. They are ideal for stashbusting and using up scraps of yarn - it's so pleasing to construct a real, beautiful, practical "thing" from a what is essentially a bag full of scraps.

Many mitered square blankets embrace the colourful nature of hand-dyed sock yarn and show it off to great effect. You can go as wild as you like or stick to a more restrained colour palette.

My Mitered Square blanket is often commented on although in truth it still isn't finished. I still use it as a blanket - I just haven't yet decided how large I want it to be. So every now and again I'll pull it out and add another row of squares. Each little square only uses about 3g yarn (yes - I really did measure it on my little digital scales) and so it's perfect for using up all but the tiniest bits of yarn. If you don't have tiny digital scales, a tightly wound ball of sock yarn equivalent in size to a walnut approximates to about 5g yarn in my experience.

Unless you have a very specific colour scheme in mind there a few points it is worth considering before you start your blanket.

Variety: In most cases the blankets really do look better with more variety in colour. To get the best result you really do need a lot of different scraps otherwise you run the risk of the same colour cropping up too frequently (or even adjoining). If that's fine with you then by all means go for it but one of the most common complaints from people who have started a blanket and then stopped is that they don't have enough variety to choose from. For this reason, sock yarn mini swaps are quite common amongst knitters and knitting groups.

Size of squares: It sounds blindingly obvious but it's worth mentioning at the start. The larger your individual squares are the more yarn they will need. Some people embrace this wholeheartedly and are happy to just knit large squares and add in new colours to the square as each scrap runs out. My brain is wired to need a little more order than that, so I'm happiest when I can complete a small square in one single colour. I've also seen some really fantastic blankets knit with teeny, tiny squares (about an inch across) which look fantastic - but the thought of all those ends is enough to make me hyperventilate.

Portability: Again, forgive me for stating the obvious but apart from the initial stages, this is not a very portable project. You have to take your yarn scraps with you if you want to work on it out of the house and if you are the type who likes order and symmetry (raises hand) then you might need to have space to spread it out and determine where colours are placed.

Square 1

Square 1: 

This tutorial starts by casting on 20 stitches with a stitch marker placed on the needle at the halfway point. This will yield a very small square though, so for your blanket you might want to think about starting with 40 stitches in total (20 +20).

For my sock yarn blanket I use a 3.25 mm needle - the fabric doesn't need to be as dense as for socks - but's worth experimenting a little to get a fabric you are happy with. You are going to be spending a lot of time with this project after all.

With your first yarn, cast on 10 stitches using the long tail cast on, place a marker and then cast on another 10. The next row is your right side and you are going to work as follows:

RS: Knit to 2 st before marker, ssk, slip marker, k2tog, knit to end.

WS: K 

These 2 rows form the basis of your mitered square.

All you are doing is decreasing two stitches on either side of the central marker on each RS row. WS rows are just knit all the way across. If you find yourself getting confused about your right and wrong side, clip a removable stitch marker into the fabric of the right side. Once you add in more squares and join in colours it will be much more obvious which is the right side.

Keep working in this manner until you have 2 stitches left on the needle. Pass the first stitch over the 2nd to bind off, break yarn and draw the yarn through the loop to finish your square. Now the fun starts as you pick a second colour to join to the first.

Square 2

First you need to cast on stitches for one side of your square (10 for this example), place a marker and then pick up and knit 10 stitches from the right hand side of the square (the right side as you look at it).This is done with the right side of your first square facing you - stitches are always picked up in this manner.

Turn the work and knit 1 row (WS), then proceed as usual with your mitered decreases. 

Carry on as usual and in no time at all you will have a second square joined to the first.

Square 3

Square 3

With your third colour you are now going to pick up and knit stitches along the left hand side of square 1. In our example that means picking up and knitting 10 stitches with your new colour, placing a marker and then casting on a further 10.

To easily cast on stitches in the middle of a row I like to use the simple thumb cast on. For many of us, this is how we first learn to cast on and whilst it can be a bit loopy and lacing in structure, in my experience it's fine for these little squares. After this you just proceed as you did with square 2. Knit back along the WS and then continue alternating decrease and plain rows.

Square 4

Square 4: Are you hooked yet?

The 'corner' patches are always fun as you are picking up stitches from sides of 2 squares. With your next colour, pick up and knit 10 stitches from the left hand side of square 2, place marker and pick up another 10 stitches from the right hand side of square 3.

Turn and knit along the WS. Then work as usual. 

From this point on it really is just a matter of having fun and playing with colour. You will start the next section by casting on 10 stitches, placing a marker and then picking up and knitting along the left hand side of square 2.

Once you get the hang of it, it really does become intuitive and you'll be excited to see how it starts to come together. The only mistake you can really make is to accidentally start your mitered decreases in the wrong corner but, honestly you'll soon see if you've done that - and you could always call it a design feature. Honestly, the hardest part, once you get into the swing of it is choosing the next colour - but that’s also the most fun.

As this is a bit of long tutorial, that you might want to save and come back to I have condensed it into a handy PDF. The Mitered Square ebook has been re-written for 2023 and now includes information on the yarn amounts you’ll need for different sizes of squares - and for options in different yarn weights too (sock weight, DK and with sock yarn held double.

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10 uses for scrap yarn - that don't involve knitting a blanket

Scrap yarn, leftover yarn, whatever you call it we all have it. Unless you are the most minimal and thrifty of knitters we all have a little (or not so little) stash of leftovers from other projects.

The question is what on earth do you do with it?

Yes of course there is the ubiquitous sock yarn blanket or mitered square blanket, or a mahoosive triple stranded project but sometimes you just want something quick and easy. Something that uses up odds and ends but doesn’t require a life-long commitment to yet another epic project.

So here, in no particular order are a few of my favourites:

Knit tiny hearts

Make felted tumble dryer balls

Knit tiny hats for prem babies

Knit scrappy socks - the clasped weft join is your friend here

Donate it to Knit for Peace

Make a magic ball

Knit a cute animal - I love the Bunny Nuggets pattern by Rebecca Danger

Make a pom pom (or two)

Knit an i-cord cosy for your ear buds to prevent tangling

Put it in a vase and make a feature of it!

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Temperature blanket: January update

It’s a few days late but I promised you an monthly update on the corner to corner knitted temperature blanket and so, here we are.

I have to say that I’m really enjoying it so far, but of course it is early days with nice short rows and it is manageable as a lunchtime/portable knitting project. I quite enjoy my lunchtime routine of checking the noon temperature and then adding my 4 rows of garter stitch for the day.

I’ll probably feel differently in June when I’m trapped under a huge woolly monster.

With the issue of portability in mind I did give some thought to creating 4 corner to corner squares - ie increasing to day 45, then decreasing to create 1 square at the end of March. The idea of more portable squares is an attractive one I have to admit. But for me, some of the aesthetic joy of these blankets is the continuation of gradient as you move through the year. Breaking it up into squares can be really stunning, visually but it’s not really the look I’m aiming for.

So, I think I’ll have to resign myself to some stay-at-home knitting for those summer months. Perhaps with a cunningly placed lap tray to keep the thing off my knees.

Knitting with yarn held double

Garter Ripple Squish - worked with 3 strands of 4ply

Some time ago, despairing of a never-ending mountain of leftover sock yarn, I knit a mahoosive ripple blanket holding 3 strands of 4ply together.

The resulting blanket is now a much loved snuggly staple in our house and usually lives casually thrown over the back of the sofa for anyone who needs it.

Knitted on 7mm needles and using over 4000m of yarn it knitted up surprisingly quickly and also made a pleasing dent in my stash.

Knitting with yarn held double or triple offers many advantages, not least the size reduction to your stash. Combining yarns of different colours, textures and even weights can produce some really beautiful fabrics that just wouldn’t be possible with just one yarn. And even better, they will be totally unique to you.

I love the marled effect you can get by combining colours - indeed I think that’s the favourite thing about this blanket of mine. And even now I can spend many a happy minute studying it and remembering the original yarns that went into it.

Some Tips: 

Swatching - yes I know - but even a little swatch will be helpful in making sure that you get a fabric you like. Technically speaking 2 4ply yarns held together should yield a DK weight but I know that in my hands at least, I get more of a worsted weight gauge. The way the yarns are spun and they way they wrap around each other during the knitting can all affect the final result. If you are planning a marl or a fade it’s always a good idea to do a little swatch first just to check that the colours play nicely together.

Winding - this is a personal one. Some people prefer to knit with the two strands coming from separate balls, some prefer to wind it into a single large ball before starting. This probably comes down to personal preference and how much you dislike tangling. If I was knitting from 2 or 3 balls I’d probably keep them separate (it also makes it easier to swap in new colours) but if I was knitting from 5 I’d have to wind it into a monster ball first.

Joining - again this is down to personal preference. With my Garter Ripple Squish blanket I used the clasped weft join to add in new colours as I wanted to and just weaved the ends in later. There is also the option to embrace the ends and go for a fringed effect if you are using up lots of odds and ends.

Ravelry - did you know that Ravelry now gives you the option to search for projects with multiple yarn strands. If you look down the search options on the left hand side you’ll see a box for ‘yarn held together’ and various options under that. This is a relatively new addition but I’ve found it to be really helpful.

As with so much in knitting, when it comes to knitting with yarn held doubled it really does come down to trial and error and finding something that pleases you - it’s great to look at other projects for inspiration but ultimately you are free to go your own way and create something truly unique.

A tale of two blankets

Top: knitted mitered square blanket, Bottom: crocheted granny square blanket

A tale of two blankets

Both are sock yarn blankets and both are well loved. 

But the crochet one took a fraction of the time (about 3 months vs 3 years) and weighs a heck of a lot more. I haven’t done the exact maths but my knitted mitered square blanket weighs about 400g (that’s approx 1600m sock yarn). The crocheted one is a bit smaller in size and weighs over 650g (well over 2500m sock yarn)

As much as a mitered square blanket will always be my first love there's no denying that a crochet blanket is a speedier way to work through my leftovers. I know that there is some debate on whether crochet does actually use more yarn than knitting but at least in my experience, the giant crochet granny square has freed up a lot more space in my leftover yarn drawer than the mitered square one ever did.

Just to seal the deal further I’m now contemplating a crochet blanket holding yarn double for even more stashbusting potential.

Our February theme for the Stash Appreciation Society is going to be holding yarn double/triple so I think I'm going to have to give this a go - in the interests of scientific research if nothing else.

If you are interested in what we are up to in the group you can find out more information at the link below - or just pop me a question.

How to knit a rounded toe

BOB Socks - with rounded toe

I’m mainly a toe-up sock girl but occasionally I do dabble in cuff down - just for a bit of variety. My husband prefers the fit of a cuff down, traditional heel flap sock, so for him this tends to be my preferred method.

One of the reasons often quoted for preferring a toe-up sock is that it avoids the need for kitchener stitching the toe closed. Personally, I quite like the zen of the process but there are times - particularly when you are in a holiday cottage miles from anywhere and you forgot to pack a needle - that an alternative is needed.

Here’s where the rounded toe comes in very handy.

Much like the crown of a hat, decrease rounds interspersed with plain, knit rounds bring the toe together to  just a few stitches, allowing the yarn to be drawn through them and the end to be woven in.

An added advantage for the more broad footed, or those whose feet don’t particularly taper is that it gives a slightly roomier toe - all the better for wiggling in.

How to knit a rounded toe: For a sock with 64 stitches:

*k6, k2tog, rep from * to end (8 sts dec). K6 rnds

*k5, k2tog, rep from * to end. K5 rnds

*k4, k2tog, rep from * to end. K4 rnds

*k3, k2tog, rep from * to end. K3 rnds

*k2, k2tog, rep from * to end. K2 rnds

*k1, k2tog, rep from * to end. K1 rnds

*k2tog, rep from * to end.

Break yarn. Thread through a tapestry needle and draw through the remaining 8sts. Pull tight, through to the wrong side and weave in end.

If you’d like to knit the socks shown above these are my BOB Socks - stands for Build On the Basics. They are cuff down with a rounded toe and you can find the pattern on my Ravelry page below.

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